When I remove the lines, will I have a 1/4" NPT male thread at the end of each stub? Or, if not, if I remove an adapter, will I have a 1/4" NPT male thread at the ends to which the adapters were put?
Thanks.
L8R
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If you remove the adapter fittings they will be 1/4" BSP threaded.
I just a few minutes ago finished replacing the seal for the autopilot Type 2 pump.
The replacement seal between the motor and the pump is SKF 3145 or Federal Mogul 220860, 8x16x7mm.
It’s a stinker to get out but the new one can be pushed in with a finger (albeit a fat thumb for me). Pump guy at Hy-Pro said to get it out with a 'dull screwdriver' - presumably to not scratch the wall the new one sits against. Very cautious prying, making sure to not touch the housing, eventually got it out, and replacement was a non-event.
$3.64 and free shipping for Amazon prime, it took over 3 weeks for the local auto parts store to get me one (through their normal channels, which included a couple of no-part distributors they use, before finally getting a 3rd one to overnight it to THEIR supplier, and then into the Bahamas and through customs)...
Just be sure you keep all the motor parts from falling out of the shell; it's easy to just hold the top and bottom plates in place, leaving the bolts in place; if you haven't moved either of the pump or motor end, it will slide right back into place.
Lots of wheel twirling and stop-to-stop movement via autopilot, in opposition (wheel starboard, auto port, and back again in reverse) sure feels like it's bled, and the gauge on the side of the reservoir (Hynautic 3-line pressure system) dropped a quarter inch, suggesting that places which used to have air now have hydraulic fluid. The wheel feels tighter than I can ever remember.
In the case of Hynautic, they prefer ATF type A or a milspec aviation oil, number forgotten. I used up the milspec I had as spare.
I think that's the end of it, as the autopilot got a lot of work without a drop.
Thanks for your help; I hope this assists some future reader of the forum; it was Freydaze' post more than a year ago which gave me the original seal part number; the rest was just research (which future readers won't have to do!)
L8R
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Thanks for the information.