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[TG] [TG11] Correct transducer part #? (1kW for Axiom Pro 12s) - Printable Version

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[TG11] Correct transducer part #? (1kW for Axiom Pro 12s) - natedawgsem - 05-12-20 12:27 PM

Looking to add a 1kw transducer to my Axiom Pro 12's. I already have the Dual RV pair but would like to be able to read beyond 600-900 feet. I need a 20 degree thru hull transducer, just not sure which one is the correct one to purchase.


RE: [TG11] Correct transducer part #? (1kW for Axiom Pro 12s) - Tom - Raymarine - Moderator - 05-14-20 10:12 PM

Hello natedawgsem,

Personally, I'm not a great fan of low-profile through-hull transducers: because they're not projecting beyond the hull they sit in the hull's aerated and turbulent boundary layer which means that their performance at speed can be limited, and because they're a relatively small enclosure (and so elements) they can lack some of the sensitivity of transducers with a larger surface area. Transom-mount can often be better - I'd rather have a TM265 than a B175 for example - but the out-and-out best transducers are through-hull faired designs.

As far as 20-degree tilted element versions go, you have a few other factors to consider:
  1. Chirp or non-Chirp? Chirp is more expensive but gives much better resolution and clarity and greater range performance for the same power output. Either can connect to Axiom Pro RVX displays: Chirp connects directly, non-Chirp needs an adaptor cable (A80496.)
  2. If Chirp, what frequency or frequencies you want for your fishing style. You can use a single frequency via an A80328 single-operation adaptor cable, or any two frequencies (Low, Medium, High) via an A102146 Y-cable. Low generally gives a wider beam and better deep-water penetration, Medium gives good detection of marlin and tuna and a good resolution with reasonable depth performance, High gives very good resolution and is available in narrow or wide beam-angles, the former being best for structure imaging and fish close to the bottom, the latter being excellent for pelagics.
  3. Housing material. If this is an aluminium hull then you need stainless steel (SS164 non-Chirp or SS175 Chirp), whereas if it's fibreglass then you can use bronze (B164 non-Chirp or B175 Chirp) which is cheaper.

So, unfortunately I can't yet give you specific part numbers. You can have a look at the depth performance and bottom coverage/beam width of these types (B164/SS164, B175/SS175) on Airmar's website to help make up your mind.

If in doubt, I would suggest B175L and B175H-W (A80048 + A80321 + A102146), for a fibreglass hull.

Regards,
Tom