[CA] [CA11] Replacement of S1G with a Evolution

[morowsky]

I have broken this post out of a previous thread I had (Raymarine forum / Raymarine Forums / Multifunction Displays / [CA11] Upgrades to my 2006 Four Winns ) because it only deals with the autopilot, and is independent of the replacement of the MFD.

To start, my boat is on the hard, shrink wrapped with no access to the engine compartment where the hydrolic pump is. The electronics and Autopilot are part of the original equipment (2006 Four Winns 348) installed by the manufacturer.

Also, in the previous thread, the Moderator identified the existing Autopilot as probably a S1G, with which I concur. The suggestion was that an ACU-150 could be installed as a repllacement for the S1G IF the pump is a TYPE 1.


Reviewing the wiring diagrams for the boat, shows that the circuit breaker for the current AP is a 10 Amp, with 14AWG wiring. Installation instructions for the S1G specifies a 20 Amp circuit breaker with 14AWG wiring. As I understand it, this supplies power to both the S1G module and the pump, with the pump being the largest draw of power.

A Type 1 pump can draw up to 12 Amps, suggesting that the current pump migt be a smaller Type 0.5 pump which draws 7Amps.


Questions:

Q1: Is this a correct assumption?
Q2: Can/should I install a ACU-100 instead of a ACU-150. (potential cost savings)
Q3: If in fact the pump is a Type 0.5, is there harm/downsides in having a ACU-150 driving it?
Q4: If I install an ACU-150, can I continue with the 10Amp CB, or should I upgrade to the 20Amp. This CB has never tripped and the AP has always worked properly.
Q5: If I wait until I open the boat (nice weather and no snow) to purchase the equipment, how do I identify the type of pump. Remember this is 2006 era equipment. I understand that this is probably the best course. It is just a matter of timing.

Thank you in advance for all your help.

[Chuck - Raymarine - Moderator]

Welcome to back to the Raymarine Forum

Q1: Is this a correct assumption?
A1: Not likely, as the S1G would not have been sold for use with a Type 0.5 pump. The Type 0.5 pump was introduced for use with the EV-100 Power Pilot.

Q2: Can/should I install a ACU-100 instead of a ACU-150. (potential cost savings)
A2: As indicated above it is unlikely that a Type 0.5 Pump has been installed. It is more likely that an incorrectly sized fuse / breaker was installed with the S1G.

Q3: If in fact the pump is a Type 0.5, is there harm/downsides in having a ACU-150 driving it?
A3. Yes. Unlike ACUs which are powering mechanical drives, where bigger can be better with respect to product life, ACUs which will power hydraulic pumps should be matched to the type of pump.

Q4: If I install an ACU-150, can I continue with the 10Amp CB, or should I upgrade to the 20Amp. This CB has never tripped and the AP has always worked properly.
A4: It is recommended that the circuit should be protected with a breaker / fuse of the rating specified within the product's installation guide.

Q5: If I wait until I open the boat (nice weather and no snow) to purchase the equipment, how do I identify the type of pump. Remember this is 2006 era equipment. I understand that this is probably the best course. It is just a matter of timing.
A5. You may want to consider talking with the party who shrink wrapped your boat to see if they can install a zippered access door (https://youtu.be/pN31MpHaI2Y) in your shrink wrapped boat. These doors may typically be used in the future with the following year's shrink wrap). The hydraulic pump features a plate or label identifying the model of pump and its part number. A Type 1 12V hydraulic pump from that period would likely have the part number M81120.

[morowsky]

Already have the zipper, just cannot open the hatch with the shrink wrap on.

Given the other answers, I will wait until I can take the shrink warp is off before deciding how to proceed.

Thank you for all your assistance.

[Chuck - Raymarine - Moderator]

You're welcome.