[DG] [DG11] Type 100 Drives to STBD, not PORT

[Keith Pleas]

Hi Chuck - hoping you have some insight.

My new to my WJ from 1999 has a complete Raymarine AP system that I've been trying to get operational. It includes a Type 100 CPU, Type 1 pump, Gyro, Rotary Rudder Ref, ST6000+, M81161 Joystick. There's also a remote KVH compass that I _think_ is attached.

Step 1 - the LCD screen was burned in, so I replaced it. I was then able to see the rudder indicator didn't move as I moved the helm, so I replaced the M81105. I was then able to drive the rudder both directions with the ST6000+, but only to starboard with the joystick.

Step 2 - I had a marine electrician look at the joystick, he reported the wiring was broken (this comes up the Stidd chair and out to the joystick at the arm) and fixed it.

Step 3 - I took the boat out, engaged the AP, it turned a bit to starboard and hung there - didn't center back and the boat continued on a long arc to starboard. I engaged the joystick in Manual, it moves the rudder to starboard, does nothing to port (just like before). But now I cannot drive the rudder to port using the ST6000+.

Before I replace the AP with an EVO (which I installed on my previous trawler) I would really like to get it working. In particular, I plan to re-use the rudder reference and the pump (I REALLY don't want to get into the hydraulics!).

I get that they joystick might not be working, but the Type 100 turning to port and no longer doing that has me buffaloed. Can you think of a simple test I can do to isolate the issue? Or - even better - a connection that might have failed that I should check?

Any guidance greatly appreciated.

[Derek - Raymarine - Moderator]

Hi Keith,
Thanks for the feedback, it is best to go back to basics.

Disconnect the peripherals to leave the pilot with control unit, fluxgate, rudder reference unit, control unit and drive unit.

You can now carry out a simple diagnosis of the pilot, for example, in STANDBY turn the wheel to port and starboard and make sure the rudder angle indicator shows the correct indication in the correct direction. If yes, then so good so far.

Next select AUTO and try 2 x +10, the rudder should move to Starboard several degrees, stop, then after a few moments, creep slowly to Starboard in small increments. Select STANDBY, then AUTO and repeat but input 2 x -10 and the rudder should move to port in the same way as it did to starboard. if this works - again all good.

If not, if the rudder goes the wrong way, reverse the motor leads into the computer, if the drive only goes in one direction, disconnect the motor connections from the computer, then temporarily dab the motor wires onto the incoming POWER connection, the pump should spin in one direction, reverse the polarity of the motor wires and the pump should spin in the other direction, if yes, then the Computer Power Amp has likely failed.

If the computer drives the pump in both directions, then reconnect the joystick and ensure the manual mode is correctly selected in the autopilot calibration, check operation of the joystick in both BANG-BANG and PROPORTIONAL mode. If it only operates the autopilot in one direction, either the Joystick is faulty or the joystick input to the computer has failed.

I hope this helps?
Regards
Derek

[Keith Pleas]

Hi Derek - thank you for the detailed response.

I think this is exactly my problem - so which are the MOTOR wires and the POWER wires in the image in my first post? I think I see the word MOTOR behind the right pair, and just a W behind the left (heavier gauge) pair. So you're saying, remove the two right ones and "dab" them into the left ones - are those metal-looking openings in the middle of each terminal conductive? Or do I have to pull out the POWER wires to expose them (the left-most looks partially exposed)?

[Derek - Raymarine - Moderator]

Hi Keith,

The two Thick wires on the left of the connector block are the main power into the computer, the two thinner wires on the right are the drive motor wires.

The two 'metal-looking openings' o the top of the connector block are indeed metal and will be live, so you can temporarily 'dab' the thinner wires onto the metal surface.

In fact to remove the motor wires from the connector, you will need to insert a flat bladed screwdriver into the top of the connector blocks and push down on the metal surface quite hard to open the connector 'jaws' and release the wires.
Be careful not to short any of the wires as this could have terminal effects on the computer!

Regards
Derek

[Keith Pleas]

I couldn't get that to work, but I was able to pull the supply wires partway out and dab them - the motor worked both ways.

Auto +10 worked exactly as you said, but Auto -10 did nothing eventually resulting in a "DRIVESTOP" error.

I think you said this indicates a Type 100 computer failure - is there anything else to test there? Any possible "quick fix"? I doubt there is going to be something short of replacing the computer (which is not economically viable), but am just checking before I buy a new Evo kit.

[Derek - Raymarine - Moderator]

Hi Keith,

Thanks for the feedback, sounds like the T100 has a failed power Amp and so the computer will need to be replaced. We no longer have spares for this product and so the autopilot will need to be replaced, you will need a new control unit p70s, new EV1 heading sensor, New ACU200, but you can retain the current T1 Hydraulic pump. The Gyro and Joystick will no longer operate with the new autopilot system.

Regards

Derek

[Keith Pleas]

I was thinking P70r - had one of those on my previous boat and loved the rotary. And I was going to go with the ACU150 - any particular reason you are recommending the ACU200? I'm looking forward to adding the new FFU controller at some point - I've got an extension to the arm of my helm Stidd chair that hold the joystick and it gets in the way - the FFU control looks like a substantial upgrade there.

[Derek - Raymarine - Moderator]

Hi Keith,

Yes, the p70R or p70S either would be fine, the ACU 200 was suggested based on allowing extra current handling for a heavy displacement boat, if you have a light boat, then the ACU150 would be fine.

The current follow up tiller steering controls would work fine with the ACU150 or ACU200.

Kind regards

Derek

[Keith Pleas]

I twin Hamilton waterjets with a single ram - it moves the nozzles. There's no rudder, so I don't think displacement is a driving factor for my vessel (though my boat is relatively light).

Thank you for you help and have a great holiday!

[Louise - Raymarine - Moderator]

You are welcome